When you think of fine dining in London the chances are that King’s Cross might not be top of your list of destinations. In which case, the shiny new St Pancras Station is even less likely to spring to mind. That is, of course, if you haven’t heard of St Pancras Grand, the impressive Searcys restaurant housed in the station’s upper concourse. (Yes the apostrophe, or absence thereof, is baffling, but I’ve been assured it doesn’t have one.)

I went there for a rather delightful evening entitled Taste of Louise, an exclusive little celebration of Champagne Pommery’s Cuvee Louise, and although perhaps the evening was not exactly representative of the experience of the average diner, it still provided a valid insight into the place’s old-school, Wolseley-esque glamour.

Dark, with marble and gold and large spherical overhead lighting, St Pancras Grand is evocative of the glory years of rail travel – that late Victorian era when trains were exciting and glamorous and a station was a hub of bustle rather than a grim procession of journey-delayed misery.

We kick off with a glass or two of the Cuvee Louise 1999 – an crisp little aperitif – before taking our seats for dinner. Chef de Cave at Pommery, Thierry Gasco, talks us through the various champagne making processes – it’s interesting to note how little sugar goes into the Cuvee Louise – before we kick off with probably the best amuse bouche I’ve ever had.

The man responsible, award-winning chef Franck Pontais, is on hand to talk us through his concept of Terrines and Verrines – essentially layers of deliciousness served in little glasses. The roasted Jerusalem on celeriac purée with red wine braised white onions Verrine is rich and sweet, but, for e, rather trumped by the divine confit of duck, Granny Smith apple mash, caramelised shallots and creamy cider sauce Verrine – it’s the most grown-up baby food ever, and nicely complemented by the dryness of the Cuvee Louise 1998.

Next up is the 1995 whose salty, shellfish edge (in a good way, trust me) is expertly paired with lobster ravioli, with baby buttered spinach, tomato chutney, and lobster and tarragon sauce. This dish, and the next one, are the work of St Pancras Grand head chef Chris Dines, and the contrast between French fiddle and hearty English wit is nice to see.

With a main course of pinkly juicy veal, we sample two different vintages – the 1989 and the ‘90. For me, it’s the ‘90 that steals the show – delicate and supple, whilst the ‘89 is perhaps a smidge too yeasty for my tastes.

Desert time equals time for Pommery Rosé 2000, the least pink pink champagne you could envisage – as with the other Cuvee Louises we sample, it’s elegant and neatly structured, with just a pinch of the sweetness you’d expect from a rosé. It’s a discreet accompaniment to Pontais’ dessert of English cherry compote, natural yoghurt and almond syrup Verrine with cherry almond biscotti:a fitting finale to a delightful evening.