By and large the only time I ever leave London is to go and play some village cricket for the mighty Hyde Heath. So when I received an invitation to come and celebrate the 250th anniversary of Brocket Hall, I was both delighted and a little apprehensive – the countryside can be an intimidating place. I needn’t have worried…

Brocket Hall is a delightful country house designed by James Paine and situated just near Welwyn Garden City, itself only a twenty-odd minute train ride from King’s Cross. Brocket Hall is probably best-known for three things: its two magnificent golf courses, a restaurant called Auberge du Lac, (formerly run by Jean-Christophe Novelli and now by Phil Thompson – under whom it was awarded a Michelin star in 2009) and, perhaps most prominently, Charles Nall-Cain, 3rd Baron Brocket, who was convicted of fraud after the disappearance of his extensive collection of Ferraris. He was also on I’m a Celebrity… a while back. God bless the provinces.

Anyway, we arrive at Brocket Hall. The drive up to the main house is really rather lovely – through luscious golf courses and over a splendid Palladian bridge, which our cabbie is pleased to point out once featured in a Spandau Ballet video. At the Hall, a butler, the brilliant Sean, takes our luggage and shows us up the beautiful main staircase and into our splendid room. The furniture is exquisite, the bed enormous, and our bathroom colossal. It even has a chandelier above the bath – this, I could get used to.

After a bit of a potter we adjourn to Auberge du Lac for lunch. Caramelised fois gras with pain d’epice, vanilla yoghurt and pickled peach is followed by poached loin of monkfish, wild garlic leaf, morels, crisp tripe and parmesan. Both dishes are light and delicious, with a combination of flavours both unexpected and precisely perfect. Dessert of rhubarb and custard soufflé, fromage frais and poached rhubarb is perhaps a little more rhubarb than I can take.

From there it’s straight on to afternoon tea and a historical tour of Brocket Hall, after which we saunter about, drinking, playing croquet, and bombing around the gold courses on one of the surprisingly speedy golf carts.

After changing into suitable evening attire – navy cashmere suit, ox-blood loafers and pink silk pocket square, if you’re interested – we toddle down to dinner in the magnificent dining room. Apparently we’re feasting at the longest single dining room table in all England. Amazing. I have to say however that the first two courses aren’t incredible – is the braised leek boudin, poached hen egg, garlic crouton, and sauce Hollandaise meant to be cold? If so, it doesn’t really work. And the herb-rolled seared swordfish, crisp vegetable salad, with parsley mayonnaise is a bit dull. But the slow-roasted rib-eye of British Excellence beef that followed is an absolute delight: rich and juicy and utterly delicious. Dessert, coffee etc also happen, I think, but by then I’m really rather, um, sated.

The following morning we oversleep and miss golf – oh well – and instead get to partake in a spot of falconry. Surprisingly it’s fascinating – although in my slightly tender state, the prospect of a trained falcon landing on my arm is more than a little alarming. The owls are cool though, and watching hawks dive upon their prey at over 200 miles per hour is really quite incredible.

All in all, Brocket Hall is wonderful – and this is one of the best weekends you could imagine. Yes, it’s luxurious and grand and impressive, but it’s also relaxing and actually quite laid-back. It’s like staying at the family home of your wealthiest friend. Blissful.

www.brocket-hall.co.uk